Keeping Your Rabbit Happy!
Feeding, equipment, neutering, illnesses and more!
[Recommended accomodation (with the lid removed)]
CARING FOR YOUR RABBIT
The information in this section is regularly updated, and if you feel a topic is not covered below, get in touch and I will do my best to include it!
SHOPPING LIST
• Good quality hutch – at least 4’x2’x2’ for a single rabbit, 6’x2’x2’ or larger for 2 rabbits
• Large run with secure lid permanently attached to the hutch, placed either on paving slabs or with wire netting fixed securely underneath to stop them burrowing out and foxes digging in.
• Wood shavings and good quality hay
• Dry rabbit pellets, such as Burgess Excel or Science Selective. Avoid muesli-type food as it encourages selective feeding.
• Pottery non-tip bowl (usually 5” diameter by 2” high) and a large 500ml-600ml water bottle
BASIC FACTS
• Life span – average 7 years. Small breeds can reach 10 years or more, very large breeds rarely reaching 5 years.
• Sexual maturity – 10-16 weeks. Gestation is 31 days. Average litter size is 6. Rabbits will have a litter every month unless prevented!
BRINGING YOUR RABBIT HOME
You are best to be prepared and bring a secure pet carrier with you when you go to collect your rabbits. Plastic carriers are best as rabbits can eat their way out of cardboard ones if they are in there long enough! It should be lined with a newspaper or towel, with a couple of large handfuls of good quality hay. If the journey is on a hot day or you are going to be travelling for more than an hour, you need to bring a drinking bottle with you so you can offer water to the rabbit when the car is stationary. The bottle should not be left on the front of the carrier otherwise it will empty out and soak the rabbit and bedding. Make sure the carrier is positioned securely to prevent it moving around, and ensure that it is placed in the shade to prevent overheating. Once home, the rabbits should be placed in their new hutch/run with the bedding and food all ready for their arrival, and then left undisturbed for the rest of the day to allow them to settle in. It is vital that you find out what they are usually fed on as changing the diet suddenly can have fatal consequences (see ‘common problems’ below).
RABBITS AND CHILDREN
Rabbits make good family pets only if parents respect the needs of the rabbit and accept the limitations of the children. Rabbits should not be bought solely as a childs’ pet as it is the adult who will have to accept the responsibility of its care when the novelty has worn off (usually within a month). Rabbits are rarely cuddly and can bite and scratch if harassed. They do not like to be picked up even if handled from a young age, and can easily injure their backs with fatal consequences if they fall or are dropped. There are only two bunnies in the photo below that are suitable to give to a young child at Easter (the time of year when the highest numbers of rabbits are sold) - and neither of them are the one in the middle!
HANDLING
Contrary to popular belief, most adult rabbits do not enjoy being handled, although some will tolerate it better than others. This applies regardless of whether the rabbit is handled from a baby or not, and unfortunately the true personality of a rabbit is not fully apparent until about 5-6 months of age. With this in mind it is important to let your new pet settle in with as little handling as possible. Gradually build up his trust and confidence by talking quietly to him and gently stroking his head if he approaches you. When he has settled in, you can pick him up gently but firmly either by placing your hands around his middle or, if you are an experienced handler, by holding the loose skin behind his ears with one hand whilst supporting his hind quarters with the other (this is called scruffing and is not suitable for all rabbits and should not be tried by inexperienced handlers). Aim to handle him no more than once a day, although even this can be too much. Remember that rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time, patience and effort. See below for advice about checking your rabbit for flystrike.
SEXING
It is absolutely vital that your rabbit is sexed correctly, especially if he or she is to live with another rabbit. Sexing of rabbits is not easy, and it is very common for people to make mistakes – even vets have been known to get it wrong! As a general rule, by about 12 weeks of age the sex of the rabbit becomes much more obvious, but before that point it is sadly all too common for people to mistake a male for a female, as some males masquerade as females to such an extent that it takes a real expert and a thorough examination to see through the “disguise”. From the photos below, you will see that an adult male is really quite obvious, with the penis protruding when the genital area is pressed gently, and the pair of testicles being apparent as long but small balloon-shaped structures on either side of the genital area.
The photo below shows a mature spayed female.
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The two photos below show an intact mature female.
An immature male is sometimes easy to spot if you know what you are looking for but BEWARE! It is these young males that can occasionally pretend to be females, and this is where the trouble begins. An immature male does not have a penis or testicles, the former only developing once the testicles have descended at about 10-12 weeks of age. The large majority of such males will have, in place of the penis, a tube-like structure, which is apparent when you press gently on the genital area.
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Photo of immature male above.
Males that have been neutered for longer than 6 months or so will look similar to an immature male, as the penis will have regressed back to a tube-like structure again and there will be no testicles present. It is important to be aware of this as some people mistake a neutered male for a female!
A small percentage of immature males will, however, not have the tube-like structure but will exhibit a leaf-like vulva lookalike, the only difference from the real female is that there is not an opening that goes all the way inside. If the rabbit is only given a quick examination it is easy to miss this fact, hence so many rabbits are not correctly sexed. The photo below illustrates this problem well, as an initial quick look will give the impression that this is a female.
There are several websites that show photos of the differences, and you may find them helpful:
http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/sexing.shtml
http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing.htm
COMPANY
Keeping a rabbit on its own results in a bored and depressed pet. Two or more rabbits introduced correctly will usually happily share their hutch and exercise run, provided they are neutered (see separate article) to stop fighting and breeding. This topic is covered in our match-up article on the web site. A neutered male and neutered female works best in the long term. Matching an existing rabbit with a new companion can be done but seek advice and help from someone experienced in rabbit match-ups.
RABBITS AND OTHER PETS
Do bear in mind that if you already have another pet such as a cat or dog, they may not be so welcoming to the new member of the family as you are! Be careful and sensible to start with, and do not allow any unsupervised contact, especially if the rabbits are babies. It only takes seconds for a cat to pounce and kill a baby rabbit, and likewise a dog to kill even an adult rabbit, so be aware of the situation and do not take it for granted that your pet will respect this new intruder! In general, most dogs can be trained not to worry a rabbit, but certain breeds will find it almost impossible, so do think it through before taking on a rabbit as it may end in disaster. Likewise, most cats can be trained to leave rabbits alone, and in fact adult rabbits usually chase cats away, causing the reverse problem! As the photo below shows, it is possible for various species of pet to live in harmony together, but do not expect too much too quickly and be prepared for instinct to kick in under certain circumstances.
WHAT BREED TO CHOOSE
Whilst you may have a preference for a particular type of rabbit, such as a lop, an upright-earred bunny, a giant or a miniature breed, the most important thing to consider is the personality of the individual concerned. The novelty will certainly wear off quickly if your beautiful pedigree top-of-the-range rabbit turns out to be the monster from hell! Having said that, you will not know the personality for real until the rabbit is about 5 months old, as rabbits change dramatically at around this age.
If you are considering taking on a giant breed (as in photo above), the most important issue is that of space. Have you really got the room to accommodate such a rabbit? Not only that, but they can be even more destructive than an ordinary rabbit and of course will eat more and produce more from the other end, so can be a lot more work. Also, as they are almost impossible to handle due to their size, if you ever have an illness problem with them it can be very difficult to administer medication! As much as they are fantastic rabbits, do think long and hard before taking such creatures on. They live a short life than average sized rabbits, rarely getting beyond 5 years of age.
Miniature breeds are not without their problems also, and many are prone to dental disease and/or temperament issues, so again it is vital to choose with care.
GROOMING
You need to think long and hard before taking on a long-haired rabbit. A lot of work is involved, and information about grooming long-haired rabbits is available in the "Grooming" article on this website.
TOYS
The rabbit in the photo above is illustrating very well the importance of giving them items that they can chew, dig at and destroy if they want to, and a cardboard box fits the bill nicely.
There are lots of toys available from pet stores, and some will appeal more than others, but you often find the most interesting playthings are articles that you have around the house anyway, such as wicker baskets.
HOUSING
Rabbits can be housed outside all year round in a good quality weatherproof hutch with a separate draught-free dark area, attached permanently to a secure run, as illustrated above. Do not be concerned if your rabbit uses the sleeping area as his toilet as this behaviour is quite common. A litter tray can be used in the hutch in the corner where bunny usually chooses as his potty corner.
The hutch must be at least 6” off the ground and should be sited out of direct sunlight and draughts. Make sure that padlocks or bolts are used for fastenings on both hutch and run to prevent access by foxes. Wire mesh used on hutches and runs should be of strong quality (not chicken wire).
Cover the hutch felting with white roofing plastic or paint it white, as there is no doubt that a white roof keeps the inside of the hutch cooler in the hot weather. If you have a plastic lid on the run, you can coat the inside with greenhouse shading.
Be very careful if you are considering purchasing a hutch on two levels with a ramp in between. It has sadly been shown that rabbits can incur serious injury by getting a hind leg trapped under the ramp where it joins the upper level, with fatal results. I personally prefer the hutch and run to be on one level, making sure that the hutch is off the ground to prevent damp. If you have already bought a hutch with a ramp, the ramp itself can be replaced by a set of "pet steps" which can be bought online or from large pet shops. See link:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290637680152?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Rabbits find steps far easier to negotiate and they are much safer than ramps. You would also need to add a run to the front, as the double storey area is not enough for rabbits. The photo below shows an adapted double storey hutch with an added run fitted on to the front. Out of view is a set of pet steps to allow the rabbits to get to the upper level safely.
The photo below illustrates just how long a rabbit can be when he stretches out whilst relaxing, emphasing how important it is that rabbits have plenty of room at all times.
The photo below shows one owners solution to keeping her rabbits warm for the winter, by housing them in part of her house! This is not the best solution for everyone, however, and as rabbits are very hardy you don't have to bring them inside for the winter if you don't want to.
The photos below shows other good alternatives
Click on the link below to see yet another way to keep rabbits happy in their accommodation. A run should be attached to the door frame so the rabbits can come outside as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7f1_FFTHxM
Thanks to a new owner getting back to me with some feedback about accommodation recently bought, I have added below a link to a website that sells good sized hutches with runs attached. Make sure if you do order via this link that you order the 6 foot hutch, as there are smaller sizes also available but these would not be big enough for a pair of rabbits. Make sure you mention CottonTails when you order, you never know, we may get a discount if enough people order! Also below is a photo of two of our adoptees in their new home!
HOUSE RABBITS
Most neutered rabbits learn to use a litter tray and can make interesting and entertaining house pets, but they can be demanding and destructive so are not suitable for everyone. Remember that even house rabbits must have access to the outside for them to remain healthy. Seek advice before deciding to keep house rabbits as you will need to bunny-proof your home, and the equipment required is different from rabbits kept outside.
The photo below shows house rabbit Molly settling down on her owner’s double bed, and the lower photo shows Roger watching a bit of television from the comfort of his armchair!
I wrote the following in response to a question I was asked about house rabbits:
The main thing you need to be aware of with house rabbits is that they are not cats or dogs, which is an odd thing to say perhaps, but it is important to understand that a rabbit is a rabbit and they do what rabbits do, predominantly chewing everything in their environment! This means that in most cases a rabbit will chew and destroy furniture, wallpaper, cables, carpets etc. no matter how many toys and other distractions you may give them. Also, whilst it is possible to litter train some rabbits, in most cases they will still leave some droppings on the floor, which is not ideal when you get up in the morning in bare feet! That is the negative stuff. However, if you are prepared to bunny-proof your home and don't mind the odd dropping on the floor, then I would suggest you take on an established neutered pair of rabbits, preferably male/female. I find it is easier to establish a routine with a rabbit when they are a bit older, as young rabbits are too full of the joys of spring and can be more difficult to train.
I do not believe in shutting house rabbits into a cage as I feel that all you then have is a sad caged rabbit who happens to live inside. Having said that, it is best to have an area that is cordoned off, say a corner of a room not a cage, to keep them in for the first few days as you need to be sure they know where their litter tray is, and also where the food and water area is located. Only once they have established a good tray routine you can then let them start to explore a bit, gradually increasing the area that they are allowed to be in. Some people like to confine their house rabbits at night, but most rabbits are just as active at night as during the day, so the night area would need to be a good size to allow them to take exercise.
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The photo above shows what damage can be done to a live cable in just a few seconds... Thankfully, the rabbit live to tell the tale!
BEDDING
The photo above illustrates why newspapers are not very suitable for bedding! Instead, use a deep layer of wood shavings throughout the hutch, with a good layer of hay on top. Litter trays can be filled either with a covering of shavings and hay or a wood-based cat litter. Remove all soiled bedding daily, spray the area with animal disinfectant and replace with fresh bedding, thoroughly cleaning out the whole hutch once a week.
Water
The actual amount an individual rabbit will drink on a daily basis depends on various factors such as weather conditions, temperature, diet, social grouping, accommodation, activity levels, and general health and hormonal status. The important thing to notice with a rabbit is changes, and as far as consumption of water is concerned this means being aware of any sudden increase or decrease in the amount of water drunk.
Make sure that the rabbit is provided with an efficient and fully working water source. If using a water bowl, bear in mind that if the rabbit turns the bowl over, fills it with bedding whilst digging, or fouls the water with urine or droppings, the water source is then absolutely useless and the rabbit could become dehydrated very quickly, especially on a hot day. Water bottles are better from this point of view but you need to make sure that they are working properly and that they don't freeze in cold weather (the spout is the first part to freeze).
I carried out a study on rabbit water consumption in October during a reasonably mild spell with temperatures during the day about 12oC. 21 rabbits were monitored over an average period of 6 days, and the amount they drank daily was carefully measured and an average figure calculated. All the rabbits were fed on exactly the same type and amount of food, and were given fresh vegetables daily in addition to ad.lib. meadow hay. I found the average amount drunk per rabbit per day was 67mls, but this amount did vary considerably between individuals, with the minimum drunk being 10mls and the maximum 160mls.
The important point to learn from this study is that water consumption will vary depending on the variables listed above, and this in itself is not abnormal. However, any sudden changes in consumption (whether up or down) should be noted and an investigation into possible causes carried out to prevent health issues developing or catch existing conditions early enough to ensure successful treatment.
FEEDING
Click on the link below to view a short video about how to feed your rabbit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa1cRkr1sbU
Be consistent with the type of dry food given and stick to it. As a general guide, miniature breeds such as netherland dwarfs should be fed 1 egg cup full (flat, not heaped) each once a day. Medium breeds up to about 3kg should be given 2 egg cups full each once daily, and giant breeds given an increased amount accordingly. The rabbit will usually finish the food quickly and then will graze on green vegetables and hay for the rest of the day. Hay should comprise 70-80% of the total diet. Fruit should not be fed apart from an occasional treat, and carrots should be given sparingly if at all. More details on vegetables follows later.
Some domestic rabbits have a poor tolerance of vegetables, especially if under the age of 16 weeks, so proceed with caution otherwise severe diarrhoea may occur with fatal results. Start by offering tiny amounts of a variety of vegetables such as celery every other day and gradually build up the amounts over a period of weeks. Stop immediately if the rabbit has a dirty bottom or runny droppings, often resolved by withdrawing the fresh food. Seek veterinary advice if this is a persistent problem. Also see section below about this issue. Never feed lettuce to a rabbit of any age.
Rabbits should not be fed extras such as bread, toast, cake, sweets, biscuits, crisps etc. Treats, as shown in the photo above, can be given if the rabbit enjoys it but they need to be in the form of food that they would have been given anyway, such as little pieces of vegetables, or some pieces taken out of their daily dried food quota.
Refill the water bottle daily, and add large handfuls of fresh hay. It is essential for rabbits to have large quantities of fibre in their diet each day so ensure that your rabbits have access to fresh hay every day of the year. Examples of fresh food you can give your rabbit are: celery, cabbage, cucumber (small amounts), cauliflower leaves, spring greens, broccoli, carrot (very small amounts), brambles (blackberries) fruit and leaves, groundsel, mint, parsley, raspberry leaves. The following can be given in very small quantities as an occasional special treat: apple, dandelions, melon, peach, pear, pineapple, strawberries, banana. The photo below is an example of what vegetables I feed to a pair of rabbits every day.
Poisonous Plants - there is a very long list of plants that can be toxic to rabbits, and I have included the commonest ones (in the UK) here: all plants that grow from bulbs; amaryllis; arum lily (cuckoo point); bindweed (convolvulus); bracken; byrony; buttercup (small amounts dried in hay is ok); deadly nightshade (belladonna); delphinium (larkspur); elder; fools parsley; foxglove; hellebores (christmas rose); hemlock; henbane; lily of the valley; lupin; laburnum; most evergreens; oak leaves; poppies; potato tops; privet; ragwort; rhubarb leaves; scarlet runner; toadflax; woody nightshade; yew.
The following is an answer I gave to someone who was asking what vegetables they should feed their newly acquired baby rabbit:
It is important with any rabbit, especially young ones, that you make any changes very slowly. On the basis that you do not know what your rabbit has been given in the past as far as vegetables are concerned, it is best to start with something safe like celery. Offer about a quarter of a stick once a day for a few days, and if there are no soft droppings as a result you can then introduce a piece of spring greens as well for another few days. Assuming that all is well you can then add a small piece of broccoli and so on until after a couple of weeks the rabbit is having a selection of green vegetables every day.
Avoid fruit completely, and only give a very small slice of carrot per rabbit as it is high in sugar and often gives soft droppings. The large majority of rabbits benefit from having green vegetables daily, but there some individuals that cannot tolerate this and therefore you are always best to proceed slowly. For dried food, use a good quality brand like Burgess Excel or Science Selective but do be careful with the amount. An average sized rabbit should be given no more than 2 egg cups full (flat, not heaped) once a day, and even less than that if it is overweight or a small breed. Excel Lite is excellent if the rabbit is prone to soft droppings or is overweight.
BREEDING
If you find yourself in the unfortunate position of having an unplanned litter of baby rabbits due to wrong sexing of the parents or other similar situation, you will find lots of relevant information in the hand-rearing section, as it not only tackles the hand-rearing of orphans but also covers what to expect as far as mum's behaviour is concerned and also useful hints about what to expect with the babies. In the large majority of cases, mum manages the whole thing herself and it is normal for her to ignore them all day as they are only fed once a day, usually at night. Part the fur once a day to make sure that they are together in one group and that they look fat and content. This can be done when mum is out of the hutch in her run, and if you leave her out for at least an hour or so she won't even know you have had a peek. For more detailed information, contact me via email or phone and I will be happy to advise.
If you have more than one rabbit living in the area where the babies are, see the article "Mum bunny has company" on the website for information on what you need to be aware of.
There are thousands of unwanted rabbits taken in by rescue centres every year, the large majority being children’s pets that have been discarded once the novelty has worn off. This being the case, it is irresponsible to generate yet more rabbits by indiscriminate breeding. You cannot assume that your local pet shop will take any excess stock nor can you rely on selling them via the local paper. Furthermore, dental disease is largely an inherited condition and it is very likely some of the babies will develop teeth problems later in life if you use rabbits with unknown history. Contrary to popular belief, breeding will not cure a female rabbit of aggressive behaviour in the long term, and this is usually only resolved by neutering and providing a stimulating environment with lots of room to run around.
There is very little profit in breeding rabbits if they are to be kept properly with a good quality of life, as the equipment, vaccinations and precautionary treatment for E. cuniculi are all very expensive, so professional advice should be sought beforehand to establish if the project is going to be feasible both from the welfare and the financial point of view. It is totally irresponsible to decide to breed from your pet rabbit!
NEUTERING
Rabbits of both sexes should be neutered. Aside from preventing breeding, castration stops males spraying urine and decreases mounting behaviour, whilst spaying females prevents the development of uterine and associated cancers which are very common in female rabbits, as well as also deceasing aggression linked to the hormone cycle. It is important that the operation is carried out by a vet who is confident and experienced with such procedures in rabbits. Adhesive is now used to seal the incision instead of external stitches, which were frequently chewed by the rabbit with often fatal results.
Rabbits can be safely neutered at an early age, and this avoids the problems of fighting, breeding and issues with pair bonding. Males can be castrated as soon as their testicles descend, usually at around 10-12 weeks. Females can be safely spayed from 14-16 weeks, so long as they are in good health and weigh at least 1 kg.
See separate article about neutering for more information, especially important if your rabbit is female.
VACCINATIONS
Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD)
it is important that all rabbits are vaccinated annually against this disease as it is a highly contagious condition, easily spread, and there are often no symptoms to indicate that anything is wrong. This disease is inevitably fatal. It can be given from 10 weeks onwards. Occasionally a rabbit can have a reaction to a vaccination, with the resulting sores and scabs forming around the injection site and sometimes down a shoulder, and the photo below illustrates this condition. The rabbit concerned reacted to VHD vaccination. More on this topic below.
Myxomatosis
Your rabbit is more at risk from this disease if you live in a rural or semi-rural area, but cases have been observed in pet rabbits living in inner city areas as well as in house rabbits. The disease is usually spread by biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. This vaccine only lasts for 6 months at the most, so if you intend to vaccinate only once a year your rabbit will not be protected for the whole 12 months. Myxomatosis vaccinations can be given from 6 weeks of age onwards.
E. cuniculi See also the section below. Rabbits should also be treated with Panacur (Lapizole and other products available from your vet) to kill off any E. cuniculi (a common parasite) that may be present. This should be done at the same time as the vaccinations, and is a 9 day course given orally, and needs to be repeated if the rabbit mixes with others at any stage, or goes into boarding accommodation. If the rabbit has been diagnosed with E. cuniculi, the treatment would last 3-4 weeks. For more information about E. cuniculi, read the article about gut stasis on the web site. An excellent website about E. cuniculi can be found by following this link: http://www.eid.ac.cn/MirrorResources/7815/about.html
AGGRESSIVE RABBITS
I have covered this subject in detail elsewhere on the website (see Aggressive Rabbits article) so will not repeat all the information here, but will touch briefly on a seasonal problem that some owners may have come across.
It is not uncommon to find that during January and early February a normally manageable female suddenly becomes grumpy and aggressive. This is a result of the lengthening daylight, which is a trigger in wild rabbits to mark the start of the breeding season. Even spayed females can react in this way, as the pineal gland in the brain reacts to the increase in day length to stimulate a change in behaviour independently of whether they are neutered or not. The good news is that this phase does not last very long, and usually after a month or so the rabbit will return to normal again. Neutering will help, however, as although it will not prevent the mood change from happening entirely, it will make the change less extreme. Not all rabbits are affected, but enough of them are, to justify the inclusion of this information here.
Below are a couple of video clips, both tackling the issue of how to feed an aggressive rabbit:
COMMON PROBLEMS
Overgrown claws
Rabbits' claws can grow quite quickly, especially if they are on a soft surface such as grass or soft bedding. The claws must be clipped regularly to prevent them growing too long and causing problems to the rabbit, but this can vary from rabbit to rabbit, some needing their claws clipped every 3 months, others only once a year. The bit that needs to be kept short is the section beyond the live part. On white claws it is easy to see the pink live bit, but with dark nails it is harder to see how far to cut. If you are not confident about clipping the claws, do not attempt it until you have been shown by your vet or another competent person, otherwise you could cause severe bleeding, pain and distress to your rabbit. If you are confident that you know what you are doing, the following may help:When I clip rabbits’ claws I usually sit down with the rabbit on my knee and turn him or her gently upside down so the head is held gently between my side and my left arm (I am right handed). This then makes it easier to get access to all four paws, and most rabbits do not struggle in this position. The more you practise the better you will get at it. For dark claws, it is usually easier to see the live bit by looking from underneath the claw as there is a change of shape and a slight change in colour between the live and "dead" bit. Do not cut right on the line, leave a few mm’s so you are not cutting too close. Another method is to use a torch for dark claws and shine it through the claw and this will show up the live bit clearly.
The photo below shows what can happen if a rabbit's claws are not clipped regularly, especially if it is confined to a hutch or carpeted area.
E. cuniculi
Encephalitozoon cuniculi is a single-celled parasite of rabbits. It can cause partial or complete paralysis, kidney and eye diseases, and often kills. At least half of all pet rabbits have this parasite, possibly even more. Wild rabbits are not usually the source of infection as it very rarely occurs in wild rabbit populations, although it is known to be present in rats and mice. A rabbit becomes infected by eating or drinking the spores passed in the urine of infected rabbits or it can be passed from mother to babies before they are born. Often rabbits show no signs of the infection but will remain carriers until such time that additional factors such as stress or illness triggers signs of the disease. Treatment (as described above) should get rid of the parasite from the rabbit's body, but many of the effects of E. cuniculi infection are irreversible and treatment will only stop the progression of the disease. It is important to remember that spores survive in the environment, disinfection of runs, hutches, bowls and other equipment therefore being necessary to avoid re-infection.
Excessive grooming of one rabbit by another
Occassionally one can find a rabbit that performs obsessive grooming, and this can cause fur damage and sometimes even skin infections due to an area being almost constantly licked. This can occur in males or females, although I have come across more cases where the offender is a neutered male who appears to be obsessive in regard to mounting behaviour, repeatedly pulling at the fur at the back of the neck of the other rabbit. I have found some success with hanging up several salt and mineral blocks around the run/hutch, especially in places where the rabbits like to sit as this is often where the offending behaviour takes place. Although I am not in favour of these blocks in general, in cases such they can be very helpful in persuading the rabbit to turn his or her attention towards the blocks when the urge to groom excessively occurs. There are also several products that can be lightly sprayed on the fur of the rabbit being "chewed" which have an unpleasant taste, and this can also assist in helping the rabbit to change his/her ways.
Something to also be aware of is if the rabbit has been recently vaccinated. Some rabbits react badly to vaccination, and form a weeping or dry sore on the nape of their neck just behind the ears across the shoulder blades. This can then be attractive to another rabbit, who will sit and lick the area for long periods of time, and if you are not aware of the cause you may jump to the wrong conclusion. Vaccination sores usually get better on their own, just keep the area clean and dry, and sometimes applying baby talcum powder lightly to the area will put another rabbit off from paying the sore too much attention!
Deafness
If your rabbit never appears to hear you coming and only seems to respond to vibration or visual cues, it is possible he is deaf. This is not that common but I have come across this in some individuals, the latest case I have had being an albino lop. It is best to check that there are no external problems such as ear mites or infection, as this would cause loss of hearing too. Also bear in mind that rabbits hearing is different from ours, in respect that they cannot pick up lower frequencies but can hear higher frequencies than we can:
http://www.lsu.edu/deafness/HearingRange.htmlChin Rubbing
The photos below show rabbits rubbing their chins on various surfaces. This is completely normal scent marking behaviour and usually increases in frequency if the rabbit is put into new surroundings. The rabbit is simply saying "this is mine now"!
Infected scent glands
Most pet rabbit owners are not aware that a rabbit has two scent glands on either side of the genital area just in front of the tail. There is a long pouch-like structure on either side into which small amounts of "scent" are secreted, and in normal circumstances this is not a problem. However, sometimes the secretions can allow an infection (bacterial or fungal) to develop, and this causes discomfort to the rabbit and the odour is then attractive to flies, giving the risk of fly strike. Rabbits that are overweight can be particularly prone to this condition. The photo below shows a rabbit with the start of an infection in one of the glands. The black colour is just the dried up secretion and is not in itself a problem, but the creamy puss that accumulates underneath is more of a concern. The area should be cleaned gently but thoroughly with a moistened cotton bud, and a soothing antiseptic cream can be sparingly applied. If the skin appears to be very red and sore, the rabbit may need a topical antibiotic cream from the vet to help the area to heal.
Mucoid enteritis/gut stasis/bloat
Mucoid enteritis, gut stasis and bloat are the commonest killers of rabbits, especially those under 6 months of age. Bloat tends to come on suddenly without any warning, and is often occurs in the final stages in a rabbit with gut stasis or mucoid enteritis. Gut stasis occurs when the gut motility slows down or grinds to a complete halt, with the result that nothing can get through and gases start to build up. Mucoid enteritis is usuall accompanied with mucous in the droppings and/or diarrhoea. Isolated cases of these conditions may be triggered by stress, such as moving to a new home, fighting with another rabbit, changes in diet etc., but there is also an infectious form that can kill high numbers within a herd. The onset of symptoms is sudden, and include some but not necessarily all of the following: loss of appetite, few or no droppings, small misshapen droppings, sitting huddled in a corner or stretched out in obvious pain, bloated stomach, diarrhoea, jelly-like substance (mucus) being passed. This condition is extremely serious and the rabbit must be taken immediately to the vet. 60% of rabbits under 6 months of age affected with this illness die, adults having a better recovery rate with 30% fatalities.
The photo below shows a normal dropping beside a dropping that is encased in thick jelly-like mucus, which indicates that the rabbit concerned has severe inflammation of the gut.
I wrote the following in answer to someone who asked how to prevent her rabbit getting gut stasis:
Unless you are on very good terms with your vet, he/she is very unlikely to give you medications to "have on the shelf", so all you can do is be very aware of the rabbit's normal feeding and behaviour (and dropping) pattern, and any deviation from the norm needs a closer look. Some bunnies will go slightly off their food but with a nice piece of vegetable or some tasty grass or dandelions, their tummy gets going again without the need of medication or a stressful trip to the vet which is guaranteed to really start the gut stasis properly. I always feed my bunnies in the morning, and watch them to see that they are coming forward readily to eat, and that they are actually eating, not just nibbling and walking away. Also, I give a fixed amount of dried food which they always finish within a short time, so if there is any left by the next day I know I have a problem. If there appears to be something wrong, my next step is to offer something really tasty and see if that is accepted. If not, I then start on the medications: Metaclopromide injection (repeated every 8 hours as required) which stimulates the gut to start moving again, Metacam given by mouth which gives pain relief (once daily for a few days only), a sachet of Questran and a sachet of Protexin mixed together and some water added to make a cream which is then syringed into the mouth of the rabbit (I give as much of this as they will take, and give this two or three times a day, thankfully they usually like the taste). Warmth is also important, and I use a heated pad that you can put in the microwave and place that beside the rabbit so he has the choice of lying on it or moving away. Fluids need to be given if the rabbit is dehydrated, but usually this needs to be done by the vet as the saline needs to be injected subcutaneously or given as a drip.
The photo below shows a rabbit in the advanced stages of bloat.
The most important thing for you do, therefore, is to be quick to notice that something is wrong, and get the rabbit straight to a good rabbit vet if he/she does not respond to the offer of a treat. Sadly in most cases of severe bloat/gut stasis/mucoid enteritis the rabbit usually dies within 5 days despite anything that you do, but if it is caught early enough there is a chance of survival. There appears to an infectious element involved in some cases as well, especially when a litter is affected as it can wipe out the whole lot of them. I have found that keeping the E. cuniculi levels down by giving Panacur twice a year (9 day course unless E. cuniculi infection is suspected, in which case the course would be 21-28 days) increases the chances of survival and may also even offer some protection against gut stasis.
On the subject of pain relief, there seems to be enough evidence to show that Metacam is far safer than Rimadyl (Carprofen) which some vets will suggest using. It is evident that Rimadyl can and does cause more issues with liver problems and stomach lining irritation than Metacam, so do check what medication is being used. Have a look at this site for more info: http://forums.rabbitrehome.org.uk/showthread.php?t=65230
Bladder stones and sludge
Although most rabbits do not develop stones or sludge in the bladder, there are a minority of individuals who are, for a variety of reasons, prone to this very serious condition. It can affect any breed, at any age and both sexes, and is difficult to treat due to a high rate of re-occurrence. Symptoms vary but can include an increase in urination, urinary incontinence where the rabbit becomes wet around the tail and back legs from the urine dribbling out, straining to pass urine, blood in the urine, the urine appearing to be very much thicker than normal, and generally appearing to be unwell. Some rabbits only show one of these symptoms, or the symptoms are so subtle that an owner may miss them. To further complicate the situation, these symptoms can also have other causes so it should not be assumed that bladder stones or sludge are the cause. Veterinary advice must be sought straight away, and I will now explain in a bit more detail what this condition is all about to help give a general understanding of how to prevent the condition and reduce re-occurrence.
It is not currently known why a small minority of rabbits form stones whilst some form sludge, but it would appear that bladder sludge does not go on to form stones. Most rabbit urinary stones are made of some form of calcium carbonate (chalk), and can be found in the kidney collecting ducts or the ureters as well as the bladder. In some cases, a stone can be passed by the rabbit via the urethra and left behind in the litter tray, but occasionally a larger stone gets stuck in the urethra which completely or partially blocks the flow of urine. If a stone is found in the litter tray, you should not assume that is the end of the problem as there may be others still present inside. Bladder sludge is a thickening of the urine with calcium salts, resulting in urine that does not flow as well as it should. Sludge can also form in the kidneys and ureters, but most is formed in the bladder. The sludge can be as thick as toothpaste, or have a more runny grainy texture, and this can be felt by an experienced rabbit handler if the lower abdomen is gently palpated. The bladder in such cases often feels distended and “doughy”, and sometimes the sludge can be expertly voided manually if done very carefully. However, bladder stones or sludge will reoccur if the causes are not found and dealt with. Humans and most domestic animals only absorb the calcium from a meal that is needed by the body at that time, any excess either being left unabsorbed, or processed by the liver and excreted in faeces. Rabbits, however, appear to absorb calcium in excess to their needs, and excrete the excess mainly in the urine in the form of calcium carbonate. This is what makes rabbit urine cloudy in comparison to human urine, and you may well have noticed that when rabbit urine dries on the bottom of a litter tray it has the appearance and texture of chalk. A rabbit’s blood calcium level is always significantly higher than that of many other domestic animals and this is normal for rabbits, which should be borne in mind if the vet carries out blood tests.
Factors that can predispose a rabbit to bladder sludge or stones are many, and include the following:
· Not drinking enough water. This could be caused by a frozen or faulty water bottle, overturned bowl, contaminated water (some rabbits don’t like vitamins added to the water, nor the taste of water from a bottle covered in green algae). Make sure the source of water is clean and is working properly and is available at all times, and for a rabbit that drinks very little it may be worth adding some natural fruit juice to the water to encourage an increase in consumption.
· Being overweight and/or inactive. A rabbit that sits around all day is not healthy from any point of view, and urgent steps must be taken to correct the diet and encourage exercise. You can increase the chances of the rabbit moving around more by providing access to exercise at all times and giving items like wicker baskets, cardboard boxes, tubes and other items to stimulate interest, and if the rabbit is on its own it is worth considering doing a match-up as rabbits often take more exercise if living with a compatible partner . There are tips on diet, accommodation and company elsewhere on this website.
· Some rabbits are very fussy about where they urinate, so it is important to provide a suitable litter tray or quiet area that the rabbit has access to at all times. If a rabbit hangs on for too long before urinating on a regular basis, this will cause the urine to become more concentrated which could in itself cause problems. This can be an issue if transporting a rabbit somewhere in a pet carrier on a regular basis, as many rabbits will refuse to urinate in the carrier.
· Other health issues such as kidney or bladder disease.
· Giving food that contains high calcium. Although it has been shown that feeding rabbits on a diet that contains high calcium does not cause bladder stones or sludge, it would make sense to choose a diet that is lower in calcium and avoid products that contain alfalfa. A good quality meadow or timothy hay is absolutely vital to a rabbit’s health, but the concentrated dried grass products available from pet stores contain alfalfa and should be avoided. Vegetables such as kale, spinach and parsley should be given as an occasional treat only, but other dark green leafed vegetables are a very important part of a rabbit’s diet as they contain large amounts of water and should be given daily, building the amount and variety up slowly to avoid digestive upsets.
Overgrown front teeth
Usually inherited from parents, but incorrect feeding can make the situation worse. The teeth will either need to be trimmed every 3 weeks for the rest of the rabbit’s life, or be removed completely. This serious condition must be attended to urgently, otherwise the rabbit may starve to death, or at the very least be in significant pain. The photo below shows the length of the teeth after only 3 weeks of having been burred (trimmed) by the vet. Compare this with the fifth photo below.
The two photos below show a rabbit with border-line malocclusion, as the lower teeth are only just catching on the "peg teeth" (the little teeth immediately behind the top incisors), which are growing abnormally. Experience has shown that within months the lower incisors will miss the peg teeth altogether, with the result that the upper incisors will grow down towards the chin with nothing to stop them, the lower incisors growing upwards into the roof of the mouth.
A severe case of malocclusion is shown in the photo below.
A rabbit with normal front teeth is shown in the photo below.
Overgrown back teeth (dental disease)
The photo above shows a large back tooth spur protruding into the cheek of the rabbit, making a large ulcer. This rabbit showed no external signs of any problem whatsoever, even although he must have been in considerable discomfort.
Dental disease symptoms may include weight loss, runny eyes, poor appetite, dribbling, dirty bottom/soft droppings. This condition causes distress and pain and needs urgent attention. The tooth spurs will often repeatedly re-grow, resulting in frequent expensive trips to the vet. Dental disease cannot be cured, and if the rabbit is young it may be best to consider euthanasia to prevent future suffering. If the rabbit is over 4 years old and the dental disease is not too serious, it may be possible to keep it in check with regular tooth burring by the vet, but this is not always an appropriate course of action. The photo below illustrates how the eyes can be affected by disease of the back teeth, usually caused by the teeth roots growing in the wrong position and pressing on the tear ducts, shutting them flat so tears flow onto the face instead of down the tube and away via the nose and throat.
Although in most cases the discovery of severe dental disease means a shortened lifespan for the rabbit, in some extremely rare cases the symptoms of abscesses and osteomyelitis (where infection gets into the bone of the jaw which swells considerably) can be given a reprieve by medication. However, the symptoms usually return so at best all that can be achieved is to put off the inevitable for a while. Bonnie, a lovely bunny who developed osteomyletis of the jaw in older age, was successfully treated with Rifampicin (Rifadin Syrup) at a dose of 2.2mls/kg twice a day for 28 days, together with Azithromycin (Zithromax Suspension) at the dose of 1ml/kg once a day for 28 days. At the time of writing, Bonnie has gone a month so far after the treatment and is very well indeed, with no symptoms returning. I will update this entry as time goes on.
Red urine
If no other symptoms this is usually due to pigmentation of the urine from the food. Check that the water bottle is working properly, especially in the winter months when water may become frozen in the spout. If unsure, seek veterinary advice as sometimes red urine may indicate the presence of blood, possibly due to a bladder/uterine problem.
Diarrhoea
Often fatal, seek advice immediately. (also see mucoid enteritis above).
Fly Strike
Rabbits soiled with droppings or urine are at high risk from this condition – flies lay their eggs on any area of the rabbit that is wet or dirty (especially around the genital area) and the resulting maggots eat into its flesh with very distressing and often fatal consequences. This is particularly common in the summer months, so check your rabbit daily. A rabbit with maggots must be taken to the vet immediately. The following was my response to someone who questioned my views about handling rabbits:
Healthy rabbits that are not dirty around the back end, leaking urine, or obese will not get fly strike, so there is absolutely no need to check a rabbit daily unless it fits into one of these categories (or unless it has a one-off bout of soft droppings as can sometimes happen). A rabbit that has significant health issues clearly needs to be checked and appropriate medication such as Rear-Guard applied, but sadly even checking a rabbit twice a day would not necessarily be enough to save a rabbit as some go into shock within a very short time indeed once the maggots hatch, and fly eggs are often not spotted (they can be tiny, depending on the type of fly concerned). It is vital that with a "problem" rabbit the appropriate steps must be taken to address the cause of the problem, as many cases we see are caused by incorrect diet or too much quantity, but clearly E. cuniculi, arthritis, infection, tumours and dental disease can all play a part in causing leakage problems and this is not so straight forward to rectify. In most cases with rabbits that do not like being handled (and that is the majority), the bond between owner and rabbit can be put under severe strain if they are checked even once a day, never mind twice, and a balance has to be reached. As I said at the beginning, healthy rabbits do not get fly strike, so there is no need to put such rabbit through the trauma of checking without good reason.
Rabbits are basically wild creatures and still retain their basic instincts that if they are up off the ground being held, this usually means bad news (a fox’s dinner perhaps), and this must be taken into account when any contact is needed. Clearly there are some rare individuals who do not seem to mind being held (or tolerate it is perhaps a better phrase) but they are so rare that I have to base the information on the website for the majority.
The photo below shows the damaged skin of a rabbit that has recovered from flystrike. Eventually the sores will heal but the skin will be permanently scarred.
Dandruff and/or bare patches
Usually caused by mites (Cheyletiella parasitivorax) resulting in skin irritation and unsightly appearance of the fur. The dandruff is visible as large flakes, not the little tiny dots that you sometimes see when the rabbit is having a moult. It is easily treated by a course of ivomec injections or a spot-on treatment from your vet. Finish the course, otherwise the mites will return. Any other rabbits in the vicinity must be treated also. A photo of a rabbit with Cheyletiella mites is below. The rabbit had a large patch of scurf between the shoulder blades, and also another large patch just above the tail.
Lump or scab on the back of the neck
This is very common in rabbits that have been vaccinated recently. It usually heals on its own and requires no treatment, but very occasionally a rabbit can develop very nasty sores in various sites all over the body. This serious condition must be supervised by a vet as treatment will be required. The following link illustrates this point, but do remember that reactions like this are very rare indeed.
Very common in red eyed rabbits or rabbits with brown eyes that glow red in certain light. This is absolutely normal and often occurs when the rabbit is relaxed. If the head is tilted to one side however, this is a different condition and veterinary advice should be sought urgently.
Urine scalding around tails and back legs
The following was the response I wrote to someone who contacted me wanting advice about their rabbit that was wet with urine around the tail and back legs.
"There are three possible causes that I can think of. At 6 years old he possibly has a touch of arthritis in the hind legs/spine which makes it difficult to raise his tail and his haunch up when he urinates, hence the reason the urine ends up on his legs instead of flowing clear (it may be worth trying some pain relief for a week to see if that makes any difference). Secondly, he could be suffering from E. cuniculi which commonly causes urinary tract problems (a month's course of panacur would at least stop the condition getting worse and may even make improvements, but all the rabbits would need to be treated at the same time). Thirdly, if he is overweight then this would also make it difficult to urinate clear of his legs, and a diet would be in order (I wouldn't know unless I saw him - don't always believe vets as some just don't know what is a fat rabbit and what isn't).
BRC METAL EXHIBITION RING
The photo above shows how a British Rabbit Council or BRC exhibitors ring (put on a rabbit's hind leg when it is very young) can cause major problems later on, especially if the rabbit becomes overweight or something gets caught between the ring and the skin of the leg. Breeders are meant to remove these rings if the rabbit is sold on and is not going to be used for exhibiting, but sadly many do not bother and I have seen several cases where the rabbit's leg has been almost sawn in half by such rings, causing a great deal of pain and distress. The ring can be easily removed - get a sharp pair of wire cutters and make a snip on a top edge and then another clip on the opposing lower edge. The ring should then fracture right across. Repeat this on the other side of the ring and the ring should then split neatly into two halves which can then be removed. Take great care not to catch the skin or to twist the leg in such a way as to damage or break the bone. If the ring has been cutting into the skin you will need to treat the sores and this may need veterinary advice if it is severe.
Panting and sitting still a lot of the time
If the weather is very hot, it is not unusual for a rabbit to seek out a shadely cool spot, and lie there for hours, and this is especially obvious if the rabbit is overweight. However, if a rabbit shows these symotoms and it is not hot nor overweight, it is possible there may be a heart problem, and veterinary advice should be saught quickly. If the standard medication that you are offered fails to improve the situation, you can suggest the drug Fortekor, which is used for heart failure in cat and dogs (my thanks to Victoria Carey, rodentologist and experienced rabbit keeper for this information). The dose is 0.25mg/kg of rabbit, and a month's course is recommended. Victoria suggests that the tablet be crumbled in a little bit of water, and then given to the rabbit by mouth via a syringe. Heart problems are sadly common in giant breeds, especially if they have been allowed to become overweight.
DIRTY BOTTOM - a very common problem that usually can be completely cured!
The droppings of a rabbit will tell you a lot about its health. The photo below shows normal, round and firm droppings, and a healthy rabbit will pass lots of these every day (see first photo below). The size of the actual droppings will vary with the size of the rabbit, but if the size of the droppings changes suddenly and become small and hard, this indicates that the rabbit may have the beginning of gut stasis, a serious condition that is often fatal (see second photo below, showing normal droppings and those from a rabbit suffering from gut stasis in the latter stages before it stopped passing droppings completely). Veterinary opinion should be sought straight away.
Below is a photo of soft smelly droppings that indicate there is a problem, usually linked to a diet that is not healthy. This can then stick to the rabbit's tail and bottom, causing a major problem.
The photo below shows droppings that have some fur mixed in, resulting in what is often referred to as a "string of pearls". Rabbits usually pass fur without any problems, but if the gut motility has slowed for any reason (see above for information on gut stasis) the fur can become lodged and then can cause a blockage. It is not the fur that causes the problem, it is only that the gut has slowed down that it then becomes an issue. Giving pineapple juice to help dissolve the fur is a total waste of time (unless the rabbit likes it of course) as scientific tests have shown that the fur would have to be sitting in a pool of the juice for several days for it to have any significant effect upon the actual hair.
The photo below shows caecotrophs that are usually ingested straight from the anus. This is normal behaviour of a rabbit and is very important for healthy digestion. Rabbits who do not eat their caecotrophs are usually either two fat to reach down to their tails, have arthritis or pain in their joints which inhibits this behaviour, or are not well in some way. The caecotrophs then can stick to the unfortunate rabbit's tail which can cause real issues such as fly strike risk.
A rabbit with a dirty bottom is sadly very common. There are several possible causes, usually diet orientated. However, if it has suddenly occurred with no prior history of this problem, the back and front teeth should be thoroughly checked by a vet (preferably under anaesthetic as they can't be examined properly if they are conscious). It is not unusual for rabbits with back teeth problems to have sticky bottoms so this must be ruled out first. Whilst there, have the vet give the rabbit a good general check over to rule out any other health problems.
On the assumption that nothing is found (do choose your vet with care, only go to a vet who is really knowledgeable about rabbits), then one needs to look at the diet. Carrots and apples are two of the worst things you can give a rabbit as far as sticky bottoms are concerned, so withdraw them completely. It is probably a good idea to go back to basics for a couple of weeks – a very small amount of dried food, and hay and water ad lib. The dried food should be something like Burgess Excel (or Excel Lite if the rabbit is overweight), Science Selective, or other vet recommended brand. The muesli-type food is often a disaster to use and if the bunny is on this already then you must gradually wean him off over a period of a couple of weeks by adding in the new food half and half. Muesli allows the rabbit to selective feed, picking out the sweet high-fat bits and leaving the healthy pellets that contain the vitamins and minerals that are needed to keep the rabbit healthy.
The quantity that is fed is vitally important too. Most adult rabbits only need two egg cups (flat, not heaped) once a day on the assumption that they are not overweight and are an average weight of about 2.5 kg. Overweight rabbits need a very small amount daily, but with lots of hay available at all times. Hay should make up 70-80% of the total diet, the remaining 20% being made up of dried food and green vegetables.
Once the rabbit is stable on the new regime (this may take up to a month) you can then try to introduce some celery. I have found this vegetable to be very good for the large majority of rabbits, even those that normally can't tolerate vegetables. Give a quarter of a stick a day and go from there. If all seems well after a week, then try to introduce a small amount of spring greens, and see how that goes. If the sticky bottom comes back, then withdraw the greens for a while, and try again after a few days but at a much reduced amount. It is good for rabbits to have green vegetables, but sometimes trying to find the amount that will be tolerated is a bit tricky. Some individuals can only tolerate it once a week, but most will get used to a small amount every day if introduced very gradually. There are lots of plants that can be given safely to rabbits, and comprehensive list can be found on the internet.
Another possible cause of a dirty bottom is that of a flabby belly. Some rabbits that are overweight or have been overweight in the past have folds of skin around the genital area, making it almost impossible for the rabbit to eat the caecotrophs (the soft "bunch of grapes" droppings that all rabbits re-ingest) directly from the bottom, resulting in them being "caught up" in the folds of skin. If this is the case, a "tummy tuck" operation may be required to remove the excess skin, but this is a last resort and can't be done until the skin is in good condition i.e. not red, sore and inflamed. Often putting the rabbit on a strict diet is enough to solve this problem as the folds get smaller as the rabbit loses weight, but not always.
Dewlap that is too large
Most female rabbits (and a very few males) have dewlaps - the pouch of fatty tissue just under the chin - and in the large majority of cases the dewlap causes no problems at all. However, if the rabbit is overweight or has been obese in the past, the dewlap enlarges out of all proportion and restricts the movement of the rabbit and prevents him or her from grooming or consuming caecotrophs correctly. The result of this is that the rabbit is often dirty at the back end as there is no means of the rabbit to clean itself. The photo above shows a rabbit that was seriously overweight in the recent past and although she lost a lot of the excess weight, the size of the dewlap did not reduce and she needed a dewlap reduction operation which was carried out by the vet to resolve the problem. The photo below shows the position a rabbit needs to get into to be able to wash itself, this position being impossible for a rabbit with an enlarged dewlap.
An overweight dewlap can also be a area that can be targeted by flies if they manage to lay their eggs in the nice moist folds of skin underneath, and not only that but fungal infections can flare up too, all leading to a very serious situation unless action is taken. The moral of the story is never let your rabbit become overweight!
Sore feet
This is particularly common in Rex rabbits, but I have seen this distressing condition in other breeds too. For whatever reason, the fur either on the back feet or front feet or both starts to thin so much that the skin is exposed, which then gets sore and inflamed due to pressure when the rabbit is moving around. Often the first signs are the rabbit shaking its front paws and seeming to be biting them, or sitting strangely with its hind feet sticking up, to take the pressure off the sore bits. It is vital that this condition is treated quickly before infection sets in. Veterinary attention should be sought, but in addition to this you may find a spray which can be bought from a chemist particularly useful. It is a "liquid plaster" spray, and there are various brands to choose from, but they all appear to do the same job. Basically the spray puts a "second skin" over the sore area, so protecting the skin underneath. You apply it every day for 10 days or so untill the new fur is growing underneath. You can spray over mildly broken skin but make sure the area is thoroughly cleaned with a good disinfectant and dried before doing so.
Hold the rabbit gently upside down in your arms until the spray dries, and the first time you use it apply two coatings, letting it dry between coats (it only takes two or three minutes to dry but you need to keep the feet away from any contact whilst they are drying). This will resolve the skin issues but will not resolve any trapped nerve-type problem which can be responsible for persistant chewing (I think this probably causes a "pins and needles" type of sensation, hence the constant niggling of the area by the rabbit). Having said that, I successfully treated a very stubborn case where there clearly was a nerve problem and the rabbit eventually stopped chewing her feet completely, so I am confident this treatment should help. Sometimes a fungal infection sets in, but by keeping the feet dry and protected with the spray, this often goes away on its own.
A very useful product to use on feet that are red and inflamed prior to the spray is Hibiscrub, a handwash readily available from the chemist, as it contains an anti-fungal agent that I find is very effective. This would be done prior to starting the plaster spray treatment the first time. Another product that I have success with prior to the plaster spray is athlete's foot cream (available from chemists), which you apply sparingly to the sore area and gently massage it into the skin. The plaster spray is then applied. You must also make sure that the rabbit is not overweight, as this is also very important factor, as well as making sure that the surface that the rabbit lives on is soft and clean.
Testicular tumour
This only developes in intact (non-neutered) males, and is not very common. The symptom to watch for is an enlarged testicle when compared with the other one. Although a tumour in both testicles at the same time is possible, I have never seen this and have only seen rabbits with one testicle affected. Depending on the rabbit's age and general health, the tumour can be completely removed by castration, but it is possible that if the condition is cancerous, the tumour could have already spread elsewhere. The photo below shows a rabbit with a large testicular tumour.
Rabbit making a strange "quacking" noise
Some rabbits make a very odd noise when they are handled, and this is usually linked to stress as they are breathing much harder and faster. It can be linked to a very low-grade sinusitis condition which ordinarily does not give any other symptoms and only appears when breathing is accelerated, such as when given medication. If the rabbit only makes the noise when handled, it is probably a good idea to cut back the handling to an absolutely minimum if no improvement is found within a couple of weeks. If there are any other symptoms, the rabbit must be seen by an experienced rabbit-friendly vet to rule out respiratory and other possible problems.
Respiratory disease
This is often referred to as snuffles or pasteurella. It is often a chronic condition that many rabbits carry without showing symptoms. Often the signs that the disease is present only show when the rabbit is stressed in some way or has some other health issue develop in addition to it. Sadly chronic pasteurella is not curable as such, but can often be managed by giving antibiotics for a period of time when it flares up. Sometimes the condition can be fatal by developing into pneumonia, from which a rabbit rarely recovers. The photo below shows a rabbit with severe respiratory disease.
The photos below show more typical symptoms of rabbits with snuffles,photographed before the rabbits concerned managed to wipe away the evidence with their front paws. Often the only evidence that a rabbit has this disease is that the fur on the inside of the front paws is caked hard with constantly wiping away the nasal discharge, and this should be looked for when examining a rabbit that you suspect is sneezing.
GETTING RABBITS BACK INTO THEIR NIGHT AREA
If you allow your rabbits to roam free in your garden during the day, you will probably want them to be somewhere secure during the night in case a fox takes them. The process of actually getting them to go where you want them to go can be tricky! It is a good idea to feed the rabbits their dry food only at night once they are back in their night area, thus rewarding them. This can take a week or so for them to make the link between their actions and the arrival of dinner. If you are already doing this, then perhaps think of giving them their fresh greens at night as a reward instead. A lot will depend on whether the reward system gives them the incentive to behave themselves or not. You will also want to give some kind of clear signal that you want them to come in - something like using a whistle, clapping your hands, calling in a specific way etc. It is important that there is a run (or similar) attached to the night area, as if they are literally shut in overnight that would be reason enough for them not to want to comply. So long as the area is safe from foxes burrowing in or rabbits burrowing out, rabbits really appreciate the ability to be active at night.
GOING AWAY ON HOLIDAY?
Don't forget to arrange for someone reliable to look after your rabbits whilist you are away. It is less stressful if you can find someone to come in to your home so that the rabbits do not need to be moved, but if this is not possible make sure you visit the boarding facility before booking. You should take the usual food so that the diet is not changed suddenly, and give strict instructions about the feeding of greens to ensure an upset stomach doesn't occur. The run should be attached to the hutch to make certain that the rabbits get exercise. If you are in the Bristol, Bath, Wiltshire or surrounding area, CottonTails provides excellent boarding facilities and has the advantage of many years experience, including veterinary knowledge.
WHEN THE END DRAWS NEAR ...
Most rabbits live their life to the full and have many years of fun and enjoyment, but even for the healthiest bunny there comes a time when you will need to say goodbye. I read the following poem when I was waiting to see the vet to have one of my bunnies put to sleep, and the poem moved me very much. I would like to share it with you.
IF IT SHOULD BE
If it should be that I grow weak
And pain should keep me from my sleep,
Then you must do what must be done,
For this last battle cannot be won.
You will be sad, I understand.
Don't let your grief then stay your hand.
For this day, more than all the rest,
Your love for me must stand the test.
We've had so many happy years.
What is to come can hold no fears.
You'd not want me to suffer so;
The time has come -- please let me go.
Take me where my need they'll tend,
And please stay with me till the end.
Hold me firm and speak to me,
Until my eyes no longer see.
I know in time that you will see
The kindness that you did for me.
Although my tail its last has waved,
From pain and suffering I've been saved.
Please do not grieve -- it must be you
Who had this painful thing to do.
We've been so close, we two, these years;
Don't let your heart hold back its tears.
--- Anonymous ---
The following is the response I gave to a very distressed owner whose rabbit had been battling against dental disease for several years. Toby already had several abscesses removed, but they kept coming back and it had got to the point that he was running away when she came near to give the medication:
I think you have summed up the whole issue with one phrase "he is becoming wary of me". Let me briefly tell you about a dog that I had called Fala. Fala was almost 15 (a good age for most dogs) and although she still seemed reasonably happy she had become a bit incontinent and I had to fit her with a nappy to avoid the obvious problem of her leaking everywhere. It got to the stage that every time I approached her she would run away, and this was breaking my heart. After much thought and discussion I made the difficult decision to let her go and the vet came and put her to sleep. The reason I am telling you this story is that there is a bit of a similarity with your bunny Toby. Toby is reaching the end of his natural life and has battled bravely with a horrible incurable condition that without doubt causes pain and distress when the symptoms are present. It has now got to the stage that his illness is affecting your relationship with him, and this is very sad. From what I can see, you have two choices - find a way of treating him to ease his suffering without him becoming distressed and afraid of you, or decide to let him go before his suffering makes his life unbearable. Only you can make the decision, but you need to try and look in the long term - is there a very good chance that this illness can be cured? I think everyone is agreed that this is sadly not the case with Toby.
A THOUGHT-PROVOKING STORY FROM A RABBIT'S PERSPECTIVE.
Don't buy me - Fluffy's Story
"I wish I had never been born", thought Fluffy as he aimlessly paced up and down a bleak hutch. I should consider myself lucky because this is much better than my last home and even the home before. But it wasn't the kind of life I really imagined or wanted. I wanted a home where people understood rabbits, accepted them for what they were and respected their feelings. What I ended up with is a home where I was bought as a children's pet, the novelty wore off and I was put in a hutch at the bottom of the garden withg no one for company or nothing to do except watch the seasons go by.
Life for me started happy. My mother loved me and the other five kitten in the litter. We had scraps but we all loved being and playing together. Then my brothers and sisters and I were taken to a pet shop, put in a wire cage and watched by a weird selection of people who came in and out. One by one my brothers and sisters were taken out of our home, put in a cardboard box then disappeared. That was the last I saw of them. It wasn't long before I went through the same fate.
I had a feeling that day when a family with a small child came to have a look at me. They oohed and aughed, thought I was handsome andwould make the ideal pet for their child. So they bought me.
The box I was put in was very frightening, I was terrified. Nowhere to run, I was on my own and couldn't imagine my destiny. I ended up first being carried, in the box and placed somewhere (I asume it was a car because movement followed). After what seemed to be years, I was taken out and put in a hutch all to myself. I was so lonely and frightened I didn't know which way to turn. It was all so new and I was on my own for the first time in my little life.
Not long after I was put in the hutch, the family came out to first look at me then to pick me up. Needless to say they probably had never picked up a rabbit before because it hurt me so much. I was given to the child to hold. The child didn't know how to hold me, in fact she didn't want to hold me and was frightened when I scrimped and wriggled so she dropped me. Fortunately, I wasn't hurt and I was becoming more and more stressed each time. All these new adventures to cope with at once were becoming intolerable and frightening me. Then it stopped and back I went into the hutch. The next day the same happened. I wanted to protect myself from this hurt, so I turned and nipped one of the adults. But for the next few weeks, I hardly saw anyone. I became very depressed. There I was in this hutch, with nothing to do, no one for company and virtually left to fend for myself. Obviously this family were under the impression that rabbits make ideal children's pets, and I can tell you from my own personal point of view THEY DON'T.
I was lucky, after suffering this fate for a considerable period I was taken to a rescue centre. The family said I was agressive, dangerous and that I bit. What I really wanted was: not to be continually man-handled or picked up, to be given respect and dignity i.e. given a life with a purpose, fed and watered regularly, provided with companionship (another rabbit), and given a decent amount of space to exercise in. Not to be considered as just another child's play-thing.
