Keeping Your Guinea Pig Happy!
Guinea Pig Needs and Facts
Shopping List
- Hutch or cage
- Run or safe exercise area
- Wood shavings
- Good quality hay
- Guinea pig mix
- Non-spill food dish
- Water bottle
Basic Facts
- Life span: 4-8 years
- Maturity: 3-8 weeks (yes, they really can breed at 3 weeks old!)
- Gestation: 59-72 days
Bedding
Use a deep layer of shavings or sawdust throughout the cage, with a good layer of hay on top. I also like to line the floor of the hutch with newspapers before adding the shavings.
Cleaning Out
It is best to remove soiled bedding daily and replace with fresh, thoroughly cleaning out the whole cage once a week. Use a spray disinfectant suitable for small pets, especially in the corners of the cage.
Company - Guinea pigs are happiest in the company of other guinea pigs. Either 2 females, 2 males if they have been brought up together (although occasionally fighting may occur at about 6 months or so), or a neutered male and female works well. Keeping a rabbit and guinea pig together rarely works long term and must not be attempted, as serious injury to the guinea pig is the likely outcome.
Feeding - Guinea pigs cannot make their own vitamin C and therefore need to eat large quantities of fresh fruit and vegetables daily e.g. carrots, spring greens, beetroot, banana skins, cucumber, broccoli etc. This is in addition to dried food and ad. Lib. fresh hay. Lettuce should only be given as a treat and not on a regular basis. Potato peelings should not be given. Refill the water bottle daily.
Handling - Your new guinea pigs will be nervous when you first get them home, so it is important to let them settle in with as little handling as possible. Gradually build up their trust in you by talking to them and gently stroking them in their cage. When they have settled in, you can pick them up gently but firmly by placing your hands around their middle. Guinea pigs enjoy sitting on your knee whilst eating vegetables and treats.
Housing - Guinea pigs can be housed outside all year round so long as the hutch is weatherproof and has a separate draught free sleeping area. It must be at least 6 inches off the ground and should be sited out of direct sunlight and draughts. However, during the cold winter months it is best to bring their cage into a shed or similar sheltered area. An escape-proof run or exercise area is enjoyed during good weather, and guinea pigs can be out on the grass from Spring right through to Autumn.
Common Problems
Diarrhoea - Rare in guinea pigs but potentially fatal, contact your local vet immediately. It is usually caused by a gastric infection but can also occur after the guinea pig has eaten something in appropriate or has gorged on fruit.
Overgrown Teeth & Claws - Guinea pigs claws grow at different rates so some individuals need their claws trimmed every few weeks, whereas others hardly ever need trimming. It also depends on whether their run is situated on a patio or grass. Overgrown teeth is a very serious condition, and can be caused by an inherited problem, an injury to the mouth, or can be a result of illhealth in general. A vet must be consulted as soon as possible.
Scratching and/or bare patches - Often caused by a mite (Trixacarus caviae) that causes sever skin irritation. The treatment is usually an injection once a week for 4 weeks of Ivermectin administered by the vet, or a one off application of Stronghold, also available from the vet. Ivermectin is also available from large pet shops, but may be in a diluted form so it is important to read the instructions carefully. Mites must be treated seriously as this condition can be so severe that it can kill.
Compacted Rectum - A common problem in some boar guinea pigs is compacted rectum. What happens is that the sphincter muscle and surrounding tissue loses tone and becomes slack, and instead of the droppings being forced out and on to the floor, they build up at the exit and form a ball. Depending on the extent of the problem, you will have to gently squeeze out this area either every day, or two or three times a week, whatever is needed. I also use gentle massage oil on a finger (or cotton bud if you don't fancy that!) and very carefully coat the inside of the dilated area after it has been emptied. This makes it easier to empty next time. You don't need the oil every day, just now and again to keep it lubricated. There is no cure for this condition, but so long as the ball is removed very regularly it does not seem to bother the pig and they get used to the procedure.
